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30 March 2007


By Christoph Grafe


The evolution of the restaurant, and its essentially ephemeral character, is encapsulated at Puck and Pip in The Hague, says Christoph Grafe. Pictures by Hélène Binet

Public dining has a rich history of associations with shameless excess and decoration, even vulgarity. In the 15th century an alchemist’s recipe specified 60 gold ducats, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, jaspers or other precious stones as the ingredients of a mixture that was to restore its consumer to a happy, if unbalanced, existence. Three centuries later a “restaurant” was, in fact, a luxury consommé, the sort of food offered to jaded members of the privileged classes whose delicate digestion or physical arrangements would not support more robust fare.
As the restaurant became a place, rather than an excessively luxurious restorative liquid, precious materials were applied to interior decoration and, in due course, industrially produced ornamental mirrors and glass replaced the diamonds. But a hint of vulgarity has remained, which has clearly suited these institutions for dining in public. (...)

Fonte: Bdonlie
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